Why should you go to Baia?

Baia, or Baiae to the Romans, was the place to which rich Romans went on holiday. It had an appalling reputation for licentious behaviour among some of the Roman writings which have come down to us but we should consider the possibility that those authors might have been jealous. The view from Baia is outstanding.

The site which survives and is open to the public is small, it is thought to comprise no more than three establishments, all of which used the naturally sulphurous, hot water which emerges from the hills behind the town. There is still an establishment in the town which uses this source of water in its spa.

It is difficult to understand the site but the northern end was definitely a bath with a large dome over the hottest area. It is unclear what happened in the central and southern sections however part of the central section appears to be a set of rooms with a sea view and it is possible that these were hired out to holiday makers so that they could bask in the sun and enjoy the view of the Bay of Naples. The site is complicated by the land having sunk by 4 metres since Roman times so that the lower sections of the excavations could not be recovered. It is possible to take a tour of that part of the town which is now underwater using a glass bottomed boat but this takes place from the port, not from the site.

This site involves a lot of steep steps, it is not appropriate for those unsteady on their feet. The site hours are 9.00 to 19.00 in summer and 9.00 to 14.00 in winter.

How to get there

The entrance to the excavations is at the top of the site and the nearest station is Fusaro on the Cumana Line. I strongly advise you to buy tickets for both the outward journey and the return journey when you start. The ticket office at Fusaro was closed when the author needed to return and you must have a valid ticket to ride on the train. 

The Walk

Leaving the One Way System

Fusaro Station is not too far from the entrance to the site at Baia but it is a steady climb up hill. The exit from the station is beside the front of the train as you come from Naples and the road leads in a very short time to a junction which is dominated by an old building with large gates. A nearby notice informs the passer that it is owned by the district of Bacoli. Turn right at this point and commence the steady but slight climb up hill. After a period of time the road will veer to the right and the climb will steepen, continue on up the road and continue straight on as you pass the Joy Cafe. At the top of this road you will see that you are at what appears to be a T junction but is actually a road coming in from the right into a one way system. Follow the one way system around to the left and then turn immediately right to continue climbing up hill for very short distance. Once you have reached the top of the hill the entrance to the excavations is about 50 yards down on the right hand side of the road. The entrance has gates and a sign.

When you have seen all that you wish to see of the excavations at Baia it is possible that you may wish to descend to the modern town in order to find some refreshment, there is a flight of steps immediately to the right of the entrance to the site as you leave which descends to the town. The car park for the port area is across the road at the bottom.

Last travelled

The author last completed the journey described in June 2018.